What kind of Japanese sake is Junmai?
2024-09-11
Junmai sake is prepared by squeezing mash fermented using rice and rice malt, then adding water to adjust the alcohol-level, adding no additives. Needless to say, Junmai sake is the how sake is primarily made, the basic method for how all sake is produced. However, when rice was lacking during and after World War II, the basic ingredient for sake, sake production was mostly stopped under government regulations to secure the main dietary staple.
Sake returned to the market around 1965. According to the “Standards for Manufacturing Methods and Quality indication for Sake“ published by the National Tax Administration Agency, Junmai sake is regulated to using white rice at a rice polishing ratio of less than 70%, produced using only rice, rice malt, and water; while the aroma and flavor requirements, etc., are stipulated as having “good flavor, color, and gloss.”
Pleasing sake aroma, luster, and color is described as “to have aroma, color, and luster characteristic of Japanese sake without offensive odor and flavor.” While labels such as “Kimoto-Junmai” or “Yamahai-Junmai” is sometimes seen, these sake doesn’t use additives, and produced using the traditional Kimoto yeast starter. Of course, some Junmai sake does use Sokujo-kei yeast starter (a modern method of adding lactic acid artificially in advance), and there is no direct relationship between the type of yeast starter and the definition of junmai sake.
While junmai sake is generally stipulated to have a rice polishing ratio of less than 70%, for rice polishing ratio of less than 60% or other special production method with “especially good aroma, color or luster” is labeled as “Tokubetsu-Junmai.” Also, “ginjo sake produced” with rice polished to below 60% to with “especially good aroma, color, and luster characteristic of sake” is labeled as “Junmai Ginjo,” while Junmai ginjo using rice polished to 50% can be labeled as “Junmai Daiginjo.”
While junmai sake in one word has various characteristics according to the product, generally speaking, many of them are rich in type that capitalizes on the umami flavors of rice for they don’t use additives such as distilled alcohol. Also, while the acidity-level is relatively high, the flavor is mellow, rich and full-bodied in flavor for this sake, for which the flavor is prioritized over aroma. However, sake appropriately stored and aged would be lighter in flavor, even for junmai sake. Therefore, the term “Kiippon” has been used for sake from Nada, etc., however, according to these same standards, “Kiippon” is stipulated as “junmai sake brewed only at a single brewery,” with limited use.
Sake returned to the market around 1965. According to the “Standards for Manufacturing Methods and Quality indication for Sake“ published by the National Tax Administration Agency, Junmai sake is regulated to using white rice at a rice polishing ratio of less than 70%, produced using only rice, rice malt, and water; while the aroma and flavor requirements, etc., are stipulated as having “good flavor, color, and gloss.”
Pleasing sake aroma, luster, and color is described as “to have aroma, color, and luster characteristic of Japanese sake without offensive odor and flavor.” While labels such as “Kimoto-Junmai” or “Yamahai-Junmai” is sometimes seen, these sake doesn’t use additives, and produced using the traditional Kimoto yeast starter. Of course, some Junmai sake does use Sokujo-kei yeast starter (a modern method of adding lactic acid artificially in advance), and there is no direct relationship between the type of yeast starter and the definition of junmai sake.
While junmai sake is generally stipulated to have a rice polishing ratio of less than 70%, for rice polishing ratio of less than 60% or other special production method with “especially good aroma, color or luster” is labeled as “Tokubetsu-Junmai.” Also, “ginjo sake produced” with rice polished to below 60% to with “especially good aroma, color, and luster characteristic of sake” is labeled as “Junmai Ginjo,” while Junmai ginjo using rice polished to 50% can be labeled as “Junmai Daiginjo.”
While junmai sake in one word has various characteristics according to the product, generally speaking, many of them are rich in type that capitalizes on the umami flavors of rice for they don’t use additives such as distilled alcohol. Also, while the acidity-level is relatively high, the flavor is mellow, rich and full-bodied in flavor for this sake, for which the flavor is prioritized over aroma. However, sake appropriately stored and aged would be lighter in flavor, even for junmai sake. Therefore, the term “Kiippon” has been used for sake from Nada, etc., however, according to these same standards, “Kiippon” is stipulated as “junmai sake brewed only at a single brewery,” with limited use.
純米酒とは
純米酒とは、米と米麹と水で造り発酵させたもろみを搾った後、アルコール度を調整するための水は加えるが、それ以外は何も添加しない日本酒のことである。いうまでもなく純米酒は日本酒本来の姿であり、すべての日本酒の基本形である。しかし、原料の米が極度に不足した戦中戦後の時期に、主食米を確保する官僚統制によってほとんど姿を消した。市場に復帰したのは、昭和４０年頃のこととされる。 国税庁告示の「清酒の製法品質表示基準」によると、純米酒とは精米歩合７０％以下に精白した白米を使用し、米および米麹と水だけを原料として造った日本酒と規定されており、香味等の要件としては、「香味、色沢が良好なもの」となっている。香味、色沢が良好なものとは、「異味異臭がなく清酒固有の香味および色沢を有するもの」である。最近はよく「生酛純米」とか「山廃純米」といった表示をしているものを見かけることがあるが、これらはアルコールなどの添加をしていない上に、伝統的な生酛系酒母を使って造っているという意味。もちろん、速醸系酒母を用いて造る純米酒もあり、酒母の種類と純米酒の定義とに直接の関係はない。
純米酒一般の要件は精米歩合７０％以下ということだが、６０％以下または特別な製造方法（要説明表示）で、「香味、色沢がとくに良好なもの」については「特別純米酒」の表示ができる。また、精米歩合６０％以下に 精白して「吟醸造り」を行ない、「固有の香味、色沢が良好なもの」は「純米吟醸酒」の表示ができ、さらに５０％まで精白した高精白米を用いた純米吟醸酒については「純米大吟醸酒」の表示ができることになっている。
ひと口に純米酒といっても、製品によっていろいろな特徴があるわけだ が、一般には、醸造アルコールを添加しないために米の旨みが生かされた濃醇タイプのものが多いとされる。また、酸度は比較的高いものの、まろやかな風味を持っている。つまり、濃厚でこくのある酒ということだが、 どちらかというと香りよりも味を重視して造られる酒ということもできる。しかし、適度な貯蔵・熟成を経たものならば、純米酒でもさばけのよい軽い風味になるという。 なお、昔から灘の酒などで生一本という言葉が使われてきたが、同基準では、「生一本」とは「単一の製造場のみで醸造した純米酒」と規定し使用を制限している。
