SSSIA

By Ryuji Takahashi

Restrictions across Japan, enacted following the state of emergency declaration due to the coronavirus outbreak, and preventative measures to prevent the virus from spreading were all lifted in March. As the warm spring weather in March signaled the beginning of rice and sake production season in Niigata prefecture, I paid a visit. Driving from Tokyo on the Kan-Etsu Expressway takes approximately three hours to reach my destination, Nagaoka city. First, I stopped in at the Takasaka Service Area of Saitama prefecture to enjoy a Char Siu Rice Bowl for breakfast. The meat was tender and the sauce was not too rich, very delicious. Service areas in Japan serve delicious food!
My delicious breakfast confirmed to me why more people are said to stop in at service areas on their way to their destination. After the rest stop, snow on mountaintops started to emerge from the Akagi Kogen in Gunma prefecture. Exiting the Kanetsu Tunnel revealed a snow-covered landscape with rice fields near Uonuma city still covered in snow. The arrival of spring was noticeable in Tokyo, yet still seemed a distant future for Niigata prefecture from the road.
This trip to Niigata prefecture is not to visit a sake brewery unfortunately, but a trip to attend a gathering with drinking buddies since a close friend and chef returned home with his family. After arriving at my destination in Nagaoka city, I greeted the chef’s family and went out to lunch with just my drinking buddies. We went out for “Ginger Shoyu Ramen,” representative of Nagaoka city, Niigata prefecture.
The most popular restaurant for this ramen is Aoshima Shokudo I wrote about before. However, we heard about another competing ramen shop also popular, and headed to ramen shop “Taichi.” Apparently, Ginger Shoyu Ramen fans in Nagaoka city are largely divided between Aoshima ramen and Taichi ramen. Only a few customers were seated at Taichi besides our group, seated at a table after approximately ten minutes.
Since this was our first visit, I ordered the standard Ginger Shoyu Ramen that turned out to be more voluminous than I anticipated. I quickly became full since I had Char Siu Rice Bowl only two hours before. Just the right amount of ginger flavor and smooth noodles were very delicious. Looking around the restaurant, I noticed many customers were ordering large portions of noodles. Even ladies finished a large bowl of ramen approximately 16 inches in diameter.
Leaving the ramen shop with a full stomach, we noticed a long line had formed in the storefront, no doubt a popular restaurant. We still had time before meeting up with the chef’s family, so we headed to Ponshu Kan at the Nagaoka Station to purchase snacks to accompany Japanese sake to drink at the hotel after dinner.
Despite my work pertaining to Japanese sake and my countless encounters with various regional sake brands, I can never ignore labels that read, limited edition released only in Niigata prefecture, etc. I bought several snacks and three bottles of Japanese sake, and then headed to the meeting point for the group to dine at a popular yakiniku (Japanese-style Korean BBQ) restaurant for dinner.
I’ll elaborate on our moving dining experience at yakiniku restaurant “Stamina-En” in Nagaoka city in the next issue.

東京地酒散歩（コロナ明けの新潟へ）
　全国的にコロナ禍による緊急事態宣言や、まん延防止処置の縛りが無くなり、暖かくなり始めた3月、米どころでもあり、日本酒どころでもある新潟県へ行ってきた。東京から車で関越道に乗れば目的の長岡市まで約3時間で到着するのだが、まずは埼玉県の高坂サービスエリアで朝ごはんとしてチャーシュー丼を食べた。肉が柔らかく、タレも濃すぎず非常に美味かった。最近のサービスエリアの料理は侮れない。サービスエリアを目標地点にしてドライブする人が増えているという話に納得した朝食だった。休憩後、群馬の赤城高原辺りから、山の上に雪が見え始めた。関越トンネルを過ぎればそこは雪景色。魚沼あたりの田んぼは、まだ雪に覆われており、東京では春の訪れを感じ始めていたが、新潟の春はまだまだ先なんだなと感じながら車を進めた。今回の新潟旅行は、残念ながら酒蔵訪問ではない。仲の良い板前家族の帰省に飲み仲間が集まり一緒についていくという旅行だ。目的地の長岡市に到着後、板前家族とは一度別れ、飲み仲間だけで、昼ご飯を食べに行くことに。行った先は、新潟長岡と言えば「生姜醤油ラーメン」である。以前も書いたことがある青島食堂が一番有名なのだが、今人気を二分するラーメン屋が出来たとの情報を得て向かった先は、「たいち」というラーメン屋。長岡ではどうやら青島派とたいち派という人達がいるらしい。毎日お昼には行列が出来るらしいのだが、12時少し前に到着したので、我々の前には数名しか並んでおらず、10分程でテーブルに案内された。初めての店なので普通盛りのスタンダードな生姜醤油ラーメンを頼んだのだが思ったよりもボリュームが有り、2時間前にチャーシュー丼を食べた私はお腹がいっぱいになってしまった。しかし程よい生姜の風味と滑らかな麺で非常に美味しかった。店内を見回すと大盛りを頼んでいる人が多く、女性も直径40センチくらいある丼のラーメンを完食していた。お腹いっぱいで店を出ると既に行列が出来ており、流石人気店といった感じだった。まだ、板前夫婦との合流時間には少しあったので、夕食後のホテルで飲む日本酒と肴を買いに長岡駅のぽんしゅ館へ。日本酒の仕事をしており、沢山の地酒と出会ってきたにも拘らず、新潟県内限定などの文字には弱い。つまみ数点と日本酒を3本買い、夕飯は皆で長岡の人気焼肉店に行く為、合流地点へ向かった。
感動の長岡の焼肉店「スタミナ苑」での話はまた次回に。