SSSIA

By Ryuji Takahashi
　
This report is a continuation of our trip to Niigata prefecture since the issue before last. Our final destination was Hakuro Shuzo Brewery in Nagaoka city, Niigata prefecture.
To touch on the history of the sake industry, the four-step preparation of fermentation mash was popularized throughout Japan from Nagaoka city, Niigata prefecture, home to approximately 16 sake breweries. The Hakuro Shuzo Brewery we visited is so prestigious, an entire book can be written on their history of various hardships the brand was protected from and survived.
The Hakuro brand was named with the character ‘oak,’ derived from three oaks forming the Makino family crest of the Nagaoka clan. Matahichi Yamazaki saved the Makino family from financial ruins and inherited the Hakuro brand. Stories of the Makino family and Yamazaki family are the most important part of discussing the history of the Hakuro brand.
On the day of our visit to the sake brewery, the Japanese gargoyle roof tile happened to be delivered, which we were permitted to view. I believe this tile would be interesting to anyone knowledgeable about the history of Niigata prefecture. I recommend a visit to the Hakuro Shuzo Brewery to review this roof tile to learn more about the history of the brewery. Our group happened to be very interested in how the brewery underwent changes in modern times. We visited looking forward to hearing from President, Shigeru Osaka how his concept of managing a “sake brewery” changed with the times since the brewery owner changed over time.
Of course, I am fully aware how delicious the sake is produced by Hakuro Shuzo Brewery. Slight seasonal changes in the brewing method and flavors are detectable in the “Sanzui series.” Their classic sake brands are “Hakuro” and “Three Oak.” The brewery also released sparkling sake and a collaborative brand NIIGATA ALBIREX BB. Sake produced by the Hakuro Shuzo Brewery is refreshing to the palate, consistent with sake brewed in Niigata prefecture; yet characteristic for it’s full-bodied flavor, rare for sake brewed in Niigata prefecture. In addition, the “Sanzui series” can differ significantly in flavor, depending on the production year. This is because the “Sanzui series” is still undergoing experimentation and evolving as a series. Already delicious as is, we can’t help but anticipate how much more flavorful the “Sanzui series” will become.
We toured the Hakuro Shuzo Brewery led by Master Sake Brewer, Mitsuaki Shirahara. The brewery was clean and spacious with many young sake brewers working on site. It’s wonderful to see Hakuro Shuzo Brewery raise the next generation of young sake brewers to take on sake production for the next generation. Workers appeared to be cleaning up after the day’s work at the time of our visit, yet we were permitted to tour the koji making room, storage tank, filtration machine and pasteurizer (a device that sterilizes sake with heat). Hakuro Shuzo Brewery seemed modern than most breweries we’ve visited so far. One advantage of sake brewed in a modern brewery is reliable quality.
Especially because of this day and age, sake by Hakuro Shuzo Brewery is enjoyable for its reliable, delicious flavors. Nagaoka city, Niigata prefecture is also known for their spectacular fireworks. The firework display, a summer highlight of Nagaoka city, was unfortunately cancelled this year due to the coronavirus pandemic. A longstanding tradition since the Meiji Era (1868 - 1912), the firework display was held as an ongoing festival to celebrate the city’s post-war recovery. Once the coronavirus pandemic is over, I look forward to seeing the firework display resume in Nagaoka city.

東京地酒散歩（新潟の旅・その３）

前々回から続く新潟の旅。最後は新潟県長岡市にある柏露酒造を訪れた。
酒の専門的な話になるが、四段仕込法を試醸し全国的に普及させたのは新潟長岡である。そんな長岡には日本酒蔵が16蔵程ある。今回訪れた柏露酒造とは、蔵の歴史を辿れば1冊の社会科の教科書が造れる程、名門でありその反面、沢山の苦労の中で銘柄を守ってきた酒蔵である。この柏露という銘柄は、長岡藩牧野家の家紋「三つ柏」の「柏」の字を取って誕生したとのこと。その牧野家の経営の窮地を救い柏露を譲り受けたのが山崎又七という人で牧野家と山崎家の話が柏露の歴史を語る上で最も重要な部分となる。当日、山崎家の鬼瓦が偶然にも酒蔵に届いたとの事で見せてもらった。新潟の歴史に詳しい人からすると非常に興味のある資料だと思う。是非酒蔵に行って鬼瓦を見て柏露酒造の歴史に触れていただきたいと思う。私自身は、蔵の現代の移り変わりに非常に興味があり、時代の流れの中、経営者が幾度か変わっていく事で「蔵元」という概念とは違う酒蔵運営を、尾坂 茂社長から直接聞けるのを楽しみにしていたのである。勿論、酒の美味さは充分解っている。季節で微妙に製法と味わいが変わる「さんずい」シリーズ。定番「柏露」「三つ柏」。スパークリングや新潟アルビレックスとのコラボ商品も出ている。柏露酒造の特徴としては、新潟らしいスッキリ感の中に新潟では珍しい深いコクがあることだ。しかも、「さんずい」シリーズは年によって味わいが大きく変わる場合がある。なぜなら「さんずい」シリーズは、まだまだ模索中で進化途中とのこと。今でも十分美味い「さんずい」が今後、どう美味くなるのかは期待しないわけにはいかないだろう。そんな酒造りを行っている酒蔵を白原光明大杜氏の案内で見せてもらったのだが、清潔感のある広い酒蔵で、比較的年齢の若い蔵人の姿も多く見うけられた。次世代の酒造りの世界を背負って立つ若者を育てられる酒蔵は本当に素晴らしいと思う。時間的に、片付けを行っている様子だったが、麹室や貯蔵タンク、濾過機やパストライザー（お酒の加熱殺菌をする機械）を見せてもらった。私が今回見てきた酒蔵の中ではかなり近代的な蔵に入る。近代的な酒蔵の造る酒のメリットは、品質に対する安心感だろう。こんな時だからこそ、柏露酒造の酒は安心して美味しく飲める酒であると言える。そして新潟県長岡市で有名なのは、やっぱり花火大会である。夏の風物詩である長岡の花火大会は今年、残念ながらコロナウイルスの影響で中止になってしまった。明治時代から続く、この長岡の花火は戦後の復興のお祭りとしても行なわれる様になったそうだ。コロナウイルスが終息し、その狼煙としてもう一度長岡の花火が打ち上がるのを私は楽しみにしている。