New wave French cuisine
New wave French cuisine

New wave French cuisine

New wave French cuisine with Japanese accents
By Aya Ota

In the corner of the busy East Village district, there is a restaurant with an attractive looking red-painted entrance that draws your attention. The wood-based interior creates a cozy space which makes you forget about the busy city life as soon as you step inside. The name of the restaurant is “Autre Kyo Ya”, where a new wave French cuisine is served.

The executive chef, Shuji Furukawa, who displays his skills vigorously in the kitchen, grew up in the Japanese green tea culture because his parents are the growers and the manufacturers of Yamecha in Fukuoka, Kyushu. After graduating from a Japanese cooking school, he worked in a French restaurant in Japan. Then, he went to France and built his skills on his experiences working in some famous restaurants in the Champagnes region as well as in Paris. He came to the United States in 2012. He wanted to utilize his skills in New York because he passionately believed that New York is where people from all over the world with international and diverse tastes gather.

Mr. Furukawa’s unique sense in cooking cannot be experienced anywhere else. The basic ingredients are procured locally, but the key ingredients are imported from France and Japan. The “Sea Urchin Consommé Gelée ($14)” is prepared with puréed parsnips topped with an onsen-tamago (Japanese style poached egg) covered with a consommé jelly sauce made by cooking beef and chicken for a long time. On top of the sauce is fresh sea urchin with a touch of seasonal citrus fruit to add an aroma. This seemingly unusual combination of ingredients works together, and each smooth texture creates a unified sense. This dish is so very carefully thought out as each ingredient is kept at the right temperature. The “House-smoked Octopus ($14)” is char-broiled, but the texture is kept soft like sashimi. The unique sauce made with scorched butter and smoked soy sauce gives this dish a complicated aroma, and the lime oil adds a refreshing taste. The “Roasted Kamo-Duck Confit Filo ($28)” is a gorgeous dish to enjoy duck cooked at medium rare and juicy phyllo-wrapped confit at the same time. You can enjoy this dish three different ways with three different sauces; creamy seasonal mushroom sauce, red wine with Japanese pepper sauce, and refreshing sour sauce with rhubarb and beets.

Mr. Furukawa says, “My way of cooking has no boundaries. I don’t want to have any rules to limit the scope of cooking.” Many of their customers are particular about what they eat, and come looking for a new taste in French cuisine. They don’t hesitate to ask about the ingredients and the cooking methods they are curious about on the menu. In order to satisfy such customers, he started the “Chef’s Special Course” menu, with which he explains the dishes as he serves them.

The interior reflects the concept of the restaurant as well. It does not look very Japanese by appearance, but the marble tiles and the cedar wood are from Japan. The ceiling is high, tables are far apart, and the volume of BGM is appropriate. The front windows were wide-open when I visited, which provided an even more relaxing ambience.

This restaurant was actually opened as a sister store to “Kyo Ya”, a New York Times 3-star and 1-Michelin star winning authentic Kaiseki-style Japanese restaurant, in the beginning of 2016. “Autre” is a French word that means “another”. As with the difference in the name, “Autre Kyo Ya” serves different styles of dishes, and offers a different ambience. However, creating harmonious tastes using seasonal ingredients from each of the 4 seasons faithfully, and decorating delicately beautiful plates are definitely the carried-over traditions from the original “Kyo Ya”.


賑やかなイーストヴィレッジの街の一画に、赤いペンキを塗ったチャーミングなエントランスがひときわ目を引く店がある。一歩足を踏み入れると、木をふんだんに取り入れた落ち着いた雰囲気の空間が広がり、一瞬で街の喧噪を忘れてしまう。ここは、和食材や和食の技術を巧みに取り入れた、新感覚のフランス料理を提供する店、『Autre Kyo Ya』だ。


古川氏の独特な感性で作る料理は、他の店では決して味わえない。基本的な食材は地元で仕入れるが、キーになる食材は日本やフランスから仕入れているという。「ウニとコンソメゼリー($14)」は、パースニップのピューレの上に温泉卵をのせ、牛肉と鶏肉を使い時間をかけて抽出したコンソメのゼリーかけて、新鮮なウニをトッピング。そして、季節ごとに変える旬のシトラスの香りをまとわせている。意外な組み合わせのように感じるが、それぞれの食材が持つなめらかな食感が、統一感を生み出している。パーツごとに適切な温度に調整しているというほど、手の込んだ一品だ。「自家製燻製タコ($14)」 は、炭火でグリルしているが、刺身のような柔らかな食感を残している。焦がしバターと燻製醤油のソースが独特で複雑な香りを生み出し、さらにライムオイルで爽やかに仕上げている。「鴨肉のロースト、フィロで包み焼きにした鴨肉のコンフィ($28)」は、ミディアムレアに焼き上げた鴨肉と、フィロで包み焼きにしたジューシーなコンフィの両方を、一度に楽しめる贅沢な一皿。季節のキノコをふんだんに使ったクリーミーなソース、山椒をアクセントに加えた赤ワインのソース、ルバーブとビーツで作る爽やかな酸味のあるソースと、3種類のソースが添えられ、さまざまな組み合わせを味わうことができる。




Autre Kyo Ya
10 Stuyvesant Street
New York, NY 10003
Tel: 212-598-0454

Tues-Wed 5:30pm–11pm
Thurs-Fri 5:30pm-12am
Sat 11am-12am
Sun 11am-10pm