Unique ramen in a Venetian restaurant
Unique ramen in a Venetian re...

Unique ramen in a Venetian re...

Unique ramen in a Venetian re...

Unique ramen in a Venetian re...

Unique ramen in a Venetian re...

Unique ramen you can taste in a sophisticated modern Venetian-style restaurant
By Aya Ota

“All’onda” is the name of the restaurant which some New Yorkers are glued to due to its unique concept of the modern Venetian cuisine. It is located in a sophisticated looking two-story building in the Union Square district of Manhattan with huge glass windows in front that draw the eyes of people who walk by. The ground floor of the building is laid out as a stylish bar, and the upstairs is a relaxing wooden interior space. Who would have thought that ramen is served in such a sophisticated Italian restaurant?

There are 3 ramen dishes: “Chicken Miso Ramen”, “Tonkotsu Ramen”, and the most unusual “Parmesan Dashi Ramen”. This unique ramen does not look very different from any other ramen in appearance. The soup is clear, and nothing in the bowl looks like cheese. However, as soon as you taste the soup, the flavor of parmesan cheese spreads in your mouth. I was astonished to learn the unique idea of making such dashi for the soup which is made by combining the hard crusty surface of parmesan cheese with traditional konbu dashi. The noodles are made on-site daily as you would expect from any authentic Italian restaurant. The toppings are a boiled egg, corn kernels, grilled scallions and maitake mushrooms which add an exquisite accent with its smoky scorched flavor. The other two ramen dishes, “Chicken Miso Ramen” and “Tonkotsu Ramen” sound ordinary, but taste quite different from what you normally imagine from the names. The soups look light and clear, but both soups give so much more flavor than they appear, and you can really taste chicken or pork respectively. They both taste harmonious yet without being too different. I am sure that there is no other place where you can have such unique ramen. They are served as a part of the soup menu for weekday lunch time. You can order a bowl either as a single item, or can also pair with a sandwich item such as a hamburger. For the weekend brunch, they are served as single menu items. When I saw Americans eating ramen with chopsticks in such a stylish Italian restaurant, I could not hide my surprise. I was so impressed by how far ramen culture has evolved in this country.

Ramen is not the only Japanese food on the menu. There are seafood dishes prepared with ingredients such as soy sauce, miso, yuzu pepper, and wasabi. For instance, the “Bucatini” is their signature dish with a generous portion of smoked uni (sea urchin) in rich egg yolk and cream sauce. The “Hamachi” is prepared in olive oil and soy sauce with a hint of pepperoncini as an accent. With the pickled broccoli stem added, it tastes similar to fresh sashimi in ponzu sauce. They also carry a sensible lineup of sake drinks including 3 different brands of basic sake, sparkling junmai sake, unfiltered junmai ginjo sake, and junmai daiginjo sake.

“It was a very natural thing for me to combine Venetian cuisine with Japanese ingredients,” says the executive chef/part owner of the restaurant, Mr. Chris Jaeckle. He used to work at “Ai Fiore”, the 3-star Italian restaurant by the Network Times as chef de cuisine. He also worked at “Morimoto”, a modern Japanese restaurant, and “Eleven Madison Park”, a contemporary American restaurant.
The one who developed the unique ramen dishes is the sous-chef, Joe Downey-Zayas. He says, “Because a lot of seafood is used in Venetian cuisine, it shares many common points with Japanese cuisine. The way sardines or tomatoes are used to bring out the flavors effectively is similar to the Japanese dashi concept. Another similarity the two cuisines share is having a wide-variety of noodle dishes. Italian has pastas, and Japanese has ramen, udon, etc.” Mr. Downey-Zayas started as a cook, and his ability won him a quick promotion to sous-chef only within a few months. He has been loving Japanese foods such as ramen and yakitori ever since he was a child. He was given a scholarship in 2015 to learn Japanese cooking at a traditional Japanese restaurant, and built up the skills for Japanese cuisine during that time.

In such an influential Italian restaurant, two chefs with mighty abilities are working together and creating an extraordinary menu. This is a restaurant that I want to visit repeatedly to find something new and exciting every time.





「ヴェネツィア料理に日本食材を組み合わせることは、とても自然なことだった」と語るのは、同店のエグゼクティブ・シェフでありパートナーのクリス・ジャックル氏ジャックル氏は、同店開店前は、ニューヨーク・タイムズ紙で三つ星を獲得したイタリアン・レストラン『Ai Fiori』でシェフ・デ・キュイジーンを務めた。その前にもモダン・ジャパニーズ『Morimoto』や、コンテンポラリー・アメリカン『Eleven Madison Park』で腕を奮った経験を持つ。


22 E 13th St, New York, NY 10003, United States
Phone: +1 212-231-2236